
Waterlogging refers to the situation where the engine is directly damaged due to water ingress during vehicle use, and the insurance company is responsible for compensation. Comprehensive vehicle damage insurance has been renamed as comprehensive commercial insurance for motor vehicle loss, which includes all additional insurance types, eliminating the need to purchase waterlogging insurance separately.

A few days ago, my old classmate's car got flooded in a heavy rain, and he panicked asking me about the procedure. First, check your policy—if you didn't purchase the water damage rider, the insurance company basically won't cover the engine. The first thing after flooding is never try to start the engine! If water enters the cylinders and you crank it, the engine will be totaled. When calling the insurance company to report the claim, remember to take a 360-degree video around the car with your phone, clearly capturing the waterline and license plate. Follow the tow truck to the repair shop during disassembly and damage assessment, and make sure to check the extent of wiring corrosion by lifting all the interior carpets. If the engine is fine, the claim process will be quick, but if water reaches the dashboard, the car might be depreciated by up to 50%. Last time I filed a claim, it took two months, so remember to keep copies of the repair bills for appeal purposes.

Be extra cautious when parking during the rainy season. Last time, over twenty cars got flooded in our residential underground garage. There are three levels of water damage: if water doesn't reach the chassis, you can claim cleaning fees; if it reaches below the seats, wiring harnesses need replacement; if it submerges the dashboard, the car is basically totaled. The key point is that the engine water damage coverage must be purchased separately under the auto damage clause. Last year, my neighbor learned this the hard way and had to pay 80,000 out of pocket for engine repairs. After filing a claim, the insurance adjuster will use water level test strips to measure the submersion depth—if you've cleaned the mud yourself, your claim might get rejected. It's best to choose a repair shop that offers direct insurance settlements. They'll livestream the disassembly process to avoid disputes. Don't rush to sign the damage assessment report—seat foam might look fine but can mold after drying, so insist on full replacements.

Water damage are actually quite luck-dependent. Last month, my car was flooded up to the wheel hubs, and the insurance payout came through in just three days. But remember the three don'ts: don't move the car, don't wash it, and don't turn on the power! When filing the claim, just report the license plate number, vehicle model, and water immersion level. The surveyor will come with a water quality tester for evidence collection. They mainly check the humidity of the engine air filter—if the filter paper is soaked, the engine needs to be disassembled. During repairs, make sure to replace all wiring harness connectors. A colleague overlooked this last year, and half a year later, all the window regulators failed. The trickiest are modified cars—aftermarket additions like central control screens and projectors must be declared in advance to be eligible for compensation.

Here are four key points I've summarized for dealing with flood-damaged vehicles: First is obtaining proof of parking location - get a water submersion certificate with red stamp from the property . Second, file a claim within 24 hours as late reporting reduces compensation by 30%. Third, have the repair shop provide a detailed damage list including vulnerable components like batteries, AC compressors. Fourth, for total loss compensation, the scrap value is calculated based on your vehicle's purchase price from last year's insurance policy. Transmission water damage is most troublesome - depends on fluid emulsification level. Don't sign rights transfer documents before receiving payment, otherwise you can't claim for subsequent self-paid repairs. Remember to provide both keys to the insurer - missing one deducts 500.

Veteran drivers advise doing this after water submersion: turn off the engine and activate hazard lights, retrieve the floor mats as evidence. The most common excuse insurers use to deny is "secondary ignition," so place your car keys on the windshield for photographic proof. Use your knee as the most accurate water depth gauge - if it surpasses the kneecap line, the electrical system will definitely be damaged. During damage assessment, watch out for overlooked sensors under seats; rust from water damage causes annoying later malfunctions. If repair costs exceed 80% of the insured value, negotiating a total loss settlement is more cost-effective. Final reminder: don't rush post-repair - wait three months to check for hidden electronic faults. My car seemed fine initially, but the reversing camera displayed static during rainy days later.


