
Putting snow chains on your car involves driving the vehicle onto the chains laid flat on the ground, connecting the ends over the tire, and tightening them to eliminate slack. The key is to practice in a dry, safe environment before you need them in a storm. For most front-wheel-drive vehicles, you'll install chains on the drive wheels (the front tires).
First, find a safe, flat, and well-lit area to pull over. Turn on your hazard lights. Lay the chains out flat on the ground in front of the tire, ensuring the traction chains are facing down and there are no twists in the links. Drape the end cables over the top of the tire. Slowly drive the car forward so the tire settles in the middle of the chains. Stop once about two-thirds of the tire has rolled onto the chains.
Get out and connect the chains on the inside of the tire first, which is often the more challenging part. Then, fasten the outer side. Most modern chains use a self-tightening mechanism like a cam or a ratchet. Pull the chain as tight as you can by hand before engaging this mechanism. Drive the car forward about 10-15 feet, then stop and re-tighten the chains. This final step is critical to ensure a snug fit that won't damage your wheel well.
You should drive cautiously, typically under 30 mph, and avoid spinning your tires. Remove the chains immediately once you reach clear, dry pavement.
| Chain Type | Best For | Avg. Installation Time | Max Speed | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Link | Severe conditions, off-road | 15-20 minutes | 20-30 mph | Maximum durability |
| Cable Chain | Light snow, passenger cars | 10-15 minutes | 30 mph | Lighter, quieter ride |
| Self-Tensioning | Ease of use, beginners | 5-10 minutes | 30 mph | Automatic tightening system |
| Diamond Pattern | All-around traction | 10-15 minutes | 30 mph | Balanced performance |

Honestly, I used to dread it until I got a pair of those self-tensioning chains. Game changer. The trick is to lay them out straight before you even start the car. No twists! Drive onto them slowly, connect the inside first—it’s always a bit of a reach—then the outside. Crank them tight, drive a car length, and tighten them again. You’ll know they’re on right when they sound like a consistent thump-thump-thump and not a scary metal grinding noise.

The most common mistake is not tightening them enough. Loose chains will flap around and can seriously damage your car's fender or brake lines. After you hook everything up, you must pull every bit of slack out. Then, drive forward just a few feet and get out to tighten them a second time. This final tightening is what makes the installation secure. Always check your owner’s manual first; some cars with limited wheel well clearance are not recommended for chains at all.

I think of it in three clear steps: preparation, connection, and securing. Preparation is pulling over safely and untangling the chains completely. Connection is all about getting the inner hook fastened, which is the hardest part, then the outer. Securing is the crucial follow-up: after a short drive, you re-tighten. It’s not a one-and-done job. Taking those extra two minutes to double-check the tightness is the difference between a safe drive and a roadside disaster.


