
You can get car title information primarily through your state's Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) or its equivalent agency. This is the most authoritative source. The process typically involves submitting a formal request, often using a specific form like a "Record Request," and paying a fee. You will usually need the vehicle's VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), which is a unique 17-character code, and proof of your identity or a legitimate interest in the vehicle. Other sources include the seller during a private sale, online vehicle history report services, and sometimes the lienholder if a loan was involved.
The method you choose depends on your goal. If you need an official copy for legal purposes, like proving ownership after losing the title, the DMV is your only option. For a pre-purchase check on a used car, a service like Carfax or AutoCheck might be faster and provide a broader history, including title status (e.g., "clean" vs. "salvage"). Be prepared for potential hurdles, especially with older vehicles where records might be incomplete.
| Method | Primary Use Case | Typical Cost | Key Information Needed | Processing Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| State DMV | Obtaining official, legal copy of title; transferring ownership. | $15 - $100 | VIN, License Plate, Owner's ID/Proof of Ownership. | 2-6 weeks (mail); faster in person/online. |
| Online VHR Service (e.g., Carfax) | Pre-purchase vehicle history check, including title brand check. | $40 - $100 | VIN only. | Instantaneous. |
| Current Owner/Seller | Verifying title status during a private sale. | N/A | Request to see the physical title document. | Immediate (if seller is cooperative). |
| Lienholder (Bank/Credit Union) | Confirming a loan has been paid off to release the title. | Possible processing fee. | Loan account number, personal identification. | 1-4 weeks after payoff. |
| National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) | Government-authorized check for title brands, odometer, theft. | ~$10 | VIN only. | A few minutes. |
Always double-check the VIN on the title against the VIN plate on the car's dashboard. A mismatch is a major red flag. If the title is marked as "salvage," "flood," or "rebuilt," it means the car was severely damaged and its value and safety could be compromised.

Go straight to the source: your local DMV. They have the official records. You'll need the car's VIN, which is on the dashboard near the windshield or on the driver's side doorjamb. Just go to their website, find the form for a duplicate title or records request, fill it out, and pay the fee. It's the only way to get a legal copy. Other sites can give you a history report, but the DMV holds the actual title.

When I'm checking out a used car from a private seller, the first thing I ask for is the title. I look at the physical document myself. I make sure the VIN on the title matches the car's VIN exactly. I also check that the seller's name is on the title and that there's no lien listed from a bank. If something looks off, like a "reconstructed" title brand, I walk away. It's the simplest and most direct check you can do before money changes hands.

I use an online service like Carfax for a quick background check. You just plug in the VIN, pay the fee, and get a report in seconds. It tells you the title history—if it's been in a major accident, flooded, or has a salvage brand. It's not the official legal document, but it's fantastic for screening cars. It saved me from buying a car that had a "total loss" history the seller conveniently forgot to mention. It's cheap peace of mind.


