
Yes, but very inefficiently. At idle, a car's engine runs at a low RPM (typically 600-1,000 RPM), which causes the alternator to produce only a minimal electrical charge. This small output is primarily used to power essential systems like the engine control unit and fuel injection. If you are trying to recharge a significantly depleted battery, idling is an ineffective method and can even be detrimental over time. For a meaningful charge, you need to drive the car, as engine RPM increases to 1,500-2,000 RPM or higher, allowing the alternator to generate sufficient amperage.
The core issue is the alternator's output curve. Its charging capacity is directly tied to engine speed. At idle, the alternator might only produce enough power to break even with the car's electrical demands, leaving little to no surplus for the battery. This is especially true if electrical loads are high, such as when using headlights, air conditioning, or a powerful sound system. In these scenarios, idling can actually drain the battery further.
For context, here's a comparison of typical alternator output under different conditions:
| Engine State | Approximate Alternator Output (Amps) | Primary Electrical Loads | Net Effect on Battery |
|---|---|---|---|
| Idling (600-1,000 RPM) | 20 - 40 A | Engine ECU, Fuel Pump, Lights | Minimal to no charge; potential drain with accessories on |
| Cruising (1,500-2,500 RPM) | 60 - 120 A (or more) | All vehicle systems | Significant, positive charge |
| High RPM (3,000+ RPM) | Max output (e.g., 150 A) | All vehicle systems | Maximum charging rate |
The most effective way to recharge a healthy battery is a 30-minute drive on a highway or open road. This sustained higher RPM allows the alternator to work efficiently. If your battery is consistently dead, the problem may not be a lack of charging; it could be a failing battery, a faulty alternator, or a parasitic drain—where a component draws power even when the car is off. In these cases, idling the engine is merely a temporary workaround, not a solution. For a completely dead battery, using a dedicated battery charger is the safest and most effective method to restore it to full health.

Barely. Think of it like trying to fill a swimming pool with a garden hose on a trickle. When your engine is just idling, the alternator isn't spinning fast enough to do much more than keep the lights on. If the battery is already low, you're better off taking a 20-minute drive. That gets the RPMs up and actually pushes a solid charge back into the battery. Sitting in the driveway idling for an hour is pretty much a waste of gas.

I learned this the hard way last winter. My battery was weak, and I thought idling my SUV for 15 minutes each morning to warm it up would help. It didn't. The mechanic explained that at idle, with the heater fan, headlights, and rear defroster all on, the alternator can't keep up. It was actually draining the battery more than charging it. He told me that a short drive is worth ten times a long idle for battery health. Now, I just clear the windows and go.

Technically, it charges, but it's not a practical solution. The process is too slow to be useful for recovering a drained battery. The correct approach depends on the situation. For a battery that's just a bit low from a dome light being left on, a good drive is the fix. For a battery that's deeply discharged, a proper battery charger is the only safe and effective tool. Idling is really just for maintaining a charge on a healthy battery for a short period while stationary, not for restoring a dead one.


