
When it comes to car maintenance and oil changes, there is no strict requirement to use full synthetic oil. Introduction to semi-synthetic oil: Semi-synthetic oil is a product refined from mineral oil through hydrocracking technology. It is a mixture of mineral oil and full synthetic oil in a 4:6 ratio. The purity of semi-synthetic oil is very close to that of full synthetic oil, but its cost is slightly higher than mineral oil, making it an ideal transitional product from mineral oil to synthetic oil. Introduction to full synthetic oil: Full synthetic oil is a high-grade lubricant among engine oils. It is derived from ethylene and propylene dispersed from natural gas or gas in crude oil, which are then processed through complex chemical reactions such as polymerization and catalysis to form a lubricating fluid composed of large molecules.

This actually depends on the specific vehicle model and driving habits. I've been driving turbocharged cars for five years, and I remember the technician emphasized during the first maintenance that turbochargers operate at high temperatures, and full synthetic oil has better fluidity, especially during cold starts in winter, quickly lubricating the turbo bearings. If you use mineral oil for a long time, carbon deposits can easily accumulate in the turbo's central shaft, causing it to seize, and the repair costs could cover ten years' worth of oil. However, the manual for my Corolla 1.2T clearly states that SN-grade semi-synthetic oil is acceptable, as long as the oil certification standards are met. Nowadays, mainstream full synthetic oils like Shell Helix Ultra are often on sale for just over 200 yuan, working out to an extra three cents per kilometer, which I think is much more cost-effective than engine repairs.

A while ago, I accompanied my younger brother to get his used Golf serviced. The Volkswagen specialist showed us with an endoscope: the intake valve backs of cars using semi-synthetic oil were caked with carbon deposits like a coal mine, and the turbo blades had sludge buildup. The mechanic explained that turbos spin at over 100,000 rpm with bearing temperatures reaching 900°C - only full synthetic oil's oxidation resistance and high-temperature stability can handle that. However, he mentioned that for older low-pressure turbo engines like the early 1.4T EA111, high-quality semi-synthetic oil meeting VW 502 standards would suffice. Nowadays, newer China-6 models with GPFs are even more particular about oil - I've researched that only low-SAPS full synthetic can properly protect the particulate filter.

When I first bought a car, I spent three months browsing oil forums and noticed an interesting pattern: European and American turbocharged cars generally require full synthetic oil, like the Buick 1.5T which must use dexos1 certified oil. However, Japanese turbo engines like the Lexus 2.0T can even use OEM-recommended OW-20 semi-synthetic oil. The key is whether the HTHS (High-Temperature High-Shear) value meets the standard, as turbocharged cars typically require it to be greater than 3.5cP. Recently, when I changed the oil for my Lynk & Co, I did the math: although full synthetic oil is 40% more expensive, the oil change interval can be extended to 10,000 kilometers, making the actual cost per kilometer even lower. I remember a fellow car enthusiast last week who opted for cheaper mineral oil and ended up paying 8,000 RMB for turbocharger noise repairs.


