
Snow chains are categorized into four types based on material, each with varying degrees of impact on tires. 1. Steel snow chains: Cause significant damage to the vehicle body and produce loud noise. 2. Iron snow chains: Durable with excellent anti-slip performance. 3. Rubber or polyurethane snow chains: More suitable for family cars than iron chains, featuring low noise, easy installation, and good anti-slip effect. Additional details: 1. Iron chains (including steel variants): Widely used and most classic type. Pros: Very affordable and durable. Cons: Noisy, difficult to install/remove, heavy, and causes severe tire wear. 2. Polyurethane chains: Modern anti-slip devices made from PVC, PP, and PT chemical mixtures. Designed like a scarf with diamond patterns and steel studs - simply lay flat, drive over, and secure on drive wheels. Prone to breakage. 3. Rubber chains: Similar in shape to polyurethane chains but use high-quality rubber with strong tensile strength, reinforced with nylon fibers (like tire construction) and studded for traction. 4. Steel cable chains: The American SCC steel cable chains introduced in China 1-2 years ago. Features include jack-free installation within 3 minutes, triple lifespan of conventional chains, manganese alloy construction, and universal design for sedans and SUVs.

Snow chains can indeed cause some damage to vehicles, which I've personally experienced. Last year during a business trip in the snowy north, I drove 200+ kilometers with iron chains installed and found noticeable scratches on the tire sidewalls afterward. The main damage focuses on tires, chassis, and suspension: the metal components of snow chains can scrape tire walls, low-clearance vehicles are prone to scrape against snow-packed road surfaces, and prolonged bumpy rides may affect suspension bushings. Metal chains are particularly harsh - once I forgot to remove chains on a friend's car and drove about ten kilometers on asphalt, which literally chewed off a layer of tire tread. That said, proper installation matters - choose correctly sized chains, don't overtighten them, keep speed below 50 km/h, and remove them immediately when roads are clear. After all, on icy roads, the safety benefits of chains far outweigh this wear, provided you use them wisely.

I think the impact of snow chains on a car depends on the material and road conditions. Last winter, I used rubber ones, which felt noticeably gentler than traditional metal chains. Rubber chains don't scratch the tire sidewalls, but the elastic fibers can loosen over time, causing wobbling. Installation technique is crucial—chains that are too loose will whip the wheel arches, while overly tight ones can damage the tire pressure sensors. When driving on national highways in snowy conditions, I pay special attention to controlling speed; exceeding 60 mph makes those anti-slip blocks feel like little hammers constantly pounding the suspension bushings. Once at a highway rest stop, I met an experienced mechanic who said he stops every 30 kilometers to tighten the chain fasteners to prevent wheel hub dents from deformed anti-slip rings. Also, be mindful of your vehicle's ground clearance—my SUV handles it fine, but a friend driving a sedan in deep snow had ice chunks kicked up by the chains hitting the underbody protection. Actually, many places now use road de-icing agents, so chains aren't necessary unless it's extreme conditions.

Using snow chains normally does cause wear and tear. Last week, my neighbor's car was sent for repairs because the snow chains scratched the rim edges. Iron chains are the most damaging to tires – you can see fine rubber marks after every installation and removal. Driving too fast makes it worse, as the traction blocks hammer into the tires like chisels. Rubber chains are gentler but wear out faster, lasting only 2-3 seasons before needing replacement. Driving on asphalt roads is absolutely destructive—the sound of chains grinding the pavement is painful to hear. It's best to remove them immediately after the snow stops, as prolonged use can jam them into the brake pads. During tire changes, it's advisable to check suspension mounts since snow chain vibrations can loosen ball joints. Low-clearance sedans should be extra cautious of ice chunks hitting the undercarriage. As long as you avoid speeding and dry roads, this level of wear is acceptable.

Anti-skid chains mainly cause damage to tires and wheel hubs. Last year while playing in the snow in western Sichuan, the chains left over a dozen scratches on the alloy wheels. The metal buckles of the chains act like sandpaper, causing fine rubber particles to peel off the tires after just half an hour of driving. Rubber chains don't harm the wheel hubs but accelerate tread wear. Low-clearance vehicles should be cautious of ice chunks getting stuck under the chassis. There are now new composite material chains available, but they're significantly more expensive. Driving over 50 km/h is particularly damaging to the vehicle – I once rear-ended another car because the anti-skid chains increased braking distance. Installation shouldn't be too tight, as it can damage the tire pressure sensors. Experienced drivers recommend removing chains on sections where snow has melted, as driving with chains on concrete roads feels like the wheels are being clamped by pliers. If you must use them, choose the right size – it's better to go slightly larger than too small.


