
It can be installed or not. Not installing: The manufacturer has done an excellent job in corrosion protection for the chassis, both in terms of the environment and the craftsmanship. The special environment of the chassis has been well protected against corrosion before leaving the factory. Whether it's the materials used or the construction environment and techniques, the original factory corrosion protection is incomparable. Installing: An engine guard, as the name suggests, is used to protect the engine. However, many newly purchased cars do not come with a guard installed because dealerships aim to profit from it by collaborating with auto parts manufacturers, informing car owners to install one after purchasing the new car. Nevertheless, this guard indeed plays a significant role. When encountering rough terrain, the lack of an engine guard could easily lead to scraping the engine underneath, especially for models with lower ground clearance, making it even more necessary to install a guard.

The first thing I did after my new car was to apply underbody armor. While new cars do come with a thin anti-rust coating on the underbody, you'll quickly realize it's too fragile after just a few trips on rough roads. Last time when driving through a construction site, gravel was pinging against the underbody. After applying resin-based armor, the noise was literally cut in half. In the humid southern climate, underbody seams are particularly prone to trapping muddy water, which can lead to troublesome rust over time. I opted for rubber-based material—after application, it's like wrapping the underbody in a thick rubber mat. Now I don't even worry when using high-pressure washers during car washes. I recommend this for owners who frequently drive in rural areas or live in rainy regions—one application can last four to five years.

I've seen too many cars with rusted-through chassis being towed into repair shops, especially those five or six-year-old vehicles. The factory rustproofing on new car chassis is as thin as paper, with welding points and metal seams being the most vulnerable. Applying undercoating is like putting a raincoat on your car—particularly in saline-alkali areas or regions where de-icing salt is used in winter—it effectively blocks chemical corrosion. I recommend using polyester resin material; three coats can form an elastic protective layer that also reduces noise from stone impacts. The chassis must be thoroughly cleaned before application, otherwise adhesion will be compromised. This investment is far more cost-effective than repairing the chassis later.

Did the math carefully: The material cost for undercoating is around five to six hundred, labor two to three hundred, totaling less than a thousand. If you skip it on a new car, rust repair under the chassis after three years starts at least two thousand, and it's worse if critical components are damaged. The factory anti-rust layer only handles asphalt roads; driving on rural paths or wading through water on rainy days can easily cause it to peel. I've done it myself—bought two cans of eco-friendly resin material and sprayed three coats when the undercarriage was clean, focusing on the wheel arches and around the exhaust pipe. Though I saved on labor, professional shops' baking process makes the coating more durable. If you plan to keep the car long-term, this protection is worth the investment.

As a veteran driver with ten years of experience, I highly recommend applying undercoating as a must-do item when picking up a new car. After just half a year of driving, you'll noticeably hear the metallic sounds from the chassis become brittle, and road noise becomes more pronounced. After applying the undercoating, driving on gravel roads feels significantly quieter, and crossing speed bumps feels more stable. Metal skid plates cannot replace the rust-proofing function—only the undercoating layer can isolate corrosion from acidic rainwater or de-icing agents. Last week, while helping a friend inspect his car, I found rust spots all over the seams of his SUV's unprotected chassis. My own car is seven years old, and I check the chassis after every rainy season during car washes. So far, I've only needed to touch up the undercoating once, and the rust-proofing effect has been outstanding.

In our coastal city, it's a must to apply undercoating for new cars. The salt in the sea breeze is highly corrosive to metal. A friend's car had no protection for two years, and all the screw holes on the chassis rusted shut. I chose a quick-drying material that allows driving just two hours after application, with a thickness covering up to four millimeters. Northern car owners should be even more cautious, as winter de-icing agents are more corrosive than seawater. Before spraying, make sure to remove the tire guards and have the workers wrap the suspension components properly. With numerous chassis pipelines involved, it's best to find a professional shop with a lift for the job. This protection is like insurance for your car—you might not feel its presence daily, but it truly safeguards your chassis when it matters most.


