
There is reserve fuel. To purchase bulk fuel, you need to register your ID card at the local police station and obtain a certificate. However, some places are still unwilling to supply fuel to individuals. Even if they do, most require the use of their own fuel containers, meaning you have to buy both the container and the fuel together. Here is some knowledge on choosing the right reserve fuel tank: 1. Ensure it doesn't leak while also considering exhaust and electrostatic handling. 2. Gasoline is volatile and sensitive to static electricity, and metal containers can prevent static electricity. 3. The structural strength must be reliable. Currently, most metal containers are made of steel plates with a thickness of 0.3mm or more, some even reaching 0.8mm, comparable to the original fuel tanks in cars. Steel inevitably rusts, so the surface is usually painted. The downside is that once the tank deforms, the paint can easily peel off. If a baked paint process is used instead, it will be much better.

From my over ten years of driving experience, cars don't have a separate reserve fuel tank, but when the fuel gauge light comes on, there's still about 7-10 liters of fuel left in the tank, which is called the reserve fuel quantity. My old Passat could still run about 60 kilometers after the fuel light came on, but this number varies greatly depending on road conditions: it lasts longer with steady highway driving but depletes quickly in urban traffic jams. Once, my fuel light came on while driving on the ring expressway, and I had to tough it out by turning off the AC and switching to eco mode for 40 kilometers before finding a gas station. I recommend not pushing the limits; you should refuel when the fuel level drops below a quarter, otherwise, it's easy to damage the fuel pump. By the way, long-term use of reserve fuel can accumulate impurities at the bottom of the fuel tank.

Anyone in automotive design knows there's no real reserve fuel tank. However, every car reserves about 8% to 10% of fuel when the low fuel light comes on, acting as the driver's last resort. German cars tend to be more conservative in design, often allowing over 50 km of driving; Japanese cars offer higher precision but slightly less reserve. From my experience dismantling fuel tanks, I've noticed the fuel pump relies on gasoline for cooling - each time you drive until the light comes on, you're accelerating component wear. Worse yet, fuel level sensors may misjudge, especially on bumpy roads. My personal rule is to refuel when the gauge hits the quarter mark - it protects the vehicle and prevents panic in emergencies.

I've seen too many car owners stranded due to relying on reserve fuel during repairs. Cars don't actually have reserve tanks, but when the fuel light comes on, there's usually about 5-8 liters left, enough for 40-70 km. The remaining range varies significantly: SUVs with larger tanks last longer, while compact cars are more tight. What's critical is that in winter, gasoline atomizes poorly, and the actual mileage may be 20% less than expected. Last week, a Camry's fuel pump burned out on the expressway because the owner ran the tank dry three times in a row. Here's a tip: when the fuel gauge light flashes, immediately turn off the AC and switch to eco mode to squeeze out an extra 7-8 km. But it's best to refuel when the tank is half full—saving money isn't as important as peace of mind.


