
No, a car cannot reliably start with a truly faulty starter motor. The starter is an electric motor responsible for physically cranking the engine. If it's seized, has burnt-out windings, or a broken solenoid (the component that engages the starter gear with the engine's flywheel), it simply won't have the power to turn the engine over. You'll likely just hear a single loud "click" from under the hood when you turn the key, or complete silence.
However, the problem isn't always the starter itself. Often, what seems like a "bad starter" is actually a problem with the power delivery system. A weak or dead battery is the most common culprit, providing insufficient voltage. Corroded or loose battery cables can also prevent adequate power from reaching the starter.
Before assuming the worst, you can perform some basic diagnostics. First, check your battery voltage with a multimeter; it should read at least 12.4-12.6 volts when the car is off. Next, inspect the battery terminals for any white or bluish corrosive buildup and ensure the connections are tight.
Here’s a quick diagnostic table based on the symptoms you might hear:
| Symptom When Turning the Key | Most Likely Cause | Possible Secondary Cause |
|---|---|---|
| Single loud click, no engine crank | Faulty starter motor or solenoid | Extremely weak battery |
| Rapid series of clicks, lights dim | Weak or dead battery | Poor battery connections |
| Whirring sound but no engine crank | Starter solenoid not engaging gears | Worn starter drive gear |
| Grinding or screeching noise | Worn starter gear or engine flywheel teeth | Starter not fully engaging |
| Silence, no lights on dashboard | Complete battery failure | Blown main fuse, faulty ignition switch |
If diagnostics point to the starter, the car will need a jump start or a push start won't work. The only solutions are repairing or replacing the starter, which is a job best left to a professional mechanic due to its location and the need to handle high-current electrical components.

In my experience, it almost never starts if the starter itself is shot. You'll turn the key and get nothing, or just one solid clunk sound. But nine times out of ten, people think it's the starter when it's actually just a dead battery. Try jump-starting it first. If it starts with a jump, your starter is probably fine—it was just starving for power. If a jump does nothing, then you're likely looking at a starter replacement.

I'm not a mechanic, but I've been through this. My old truck gave me the classic "click of death." I learned that sometimes you can give a faulty starter a temporary lease on life. If you're desperate, locate the starter under the car (consult your manual) and give its casing a few firm-but-careful taps with a long metal bar or a hammer handle. This can jostle the internal brushes or a stuck solenoid just enough to make contact. It's a complete hack, but it might get you one more start to drive to the shop. Don't rely on it.

Think of it this way: the starter motor is the employee you hired to spin the engine. If that employee doesn't show up for work (the starter is dead), nothing happens. You can't do their job for them. Paying for a tow truck and a new starter is a hassle, but trying to push-start a modern automatic transmission car is impossible and could damage it. For a manual transmission, a push-start might work, but only if the problem is something other than the starter. It's usually safer and smarter to just call for roadside assistance.

From a purely technical standpoint, a car with a combustion engine requires three things to start: air, fuel, and ignition spark. But all three are irrelevant if the engine isn't turning over. The starter's sole purpose is to provide that initial rotation. A completely failed starter motor breaks the chain right at the beginning. It's like having a book with all the right words but no way to open the cover. The engine's internal combustion process cannot begin without that initial cranking motion provided by a functional starter.


