
No, you should not tow a car without a proper hitch. While it might be physically possible to connect a tow strap directly to a vehicle's frame or suspension components, doing so is extremely dangerous, illegal in most places, and highly likely to cause significant damage to both the towed vehicle (the "dinghy") and the tow vehicle. The correct and only safe method involves using a rated hitch receiver, appropriate tow bar or dolly, and ensuring both vehicles are equipped for the task.
The primary risk of towing without a hitch is the lack of a secure, reinforced connection point. A hitch receiver is bolted directly to your vehicle's frame, engineered to handle the immense stresses of towing. Attaching a strap to a control arm, tie rod, or other suspension part can bend or break it instantly, causing a loss of control. Furthermore, most states require specific safety equipment. For instance, if the towed vehicle's lights are inoperable, you legally need a separate lighting system, which is integrated into proper tow bar setups.
There are two main legal and safe ways to tow a car:
For emergency situations like a short-distance pull out of a ditch, a tow strap can be used with extreme caution, but only if you can safely connect to a dedicated tow hook or a sufficiently robust frame point, never to suspension or steering parts. For any highway travel or long distances, a proper hitch system is non-negotiable for safety.
| Towing Method | Required Equipment | Key Consideration | Typical Max Distance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Improper (Straps/Chains) | Tow straps, possibly chains | High risk of damage and accident; often illegal on public roads. | Very short (e.g., off-road recovery) |
| Flat Tow (with Tow Bar) | Hitch receiver, tow bar, baseplate on towed car | Towed car's transmission must be suitable; check owner's manual. | Long distances |
| Towing with a Dolly | Hitch receiver, car dolly | Simpler than flat-towing; no drivetrain preps needed for the towed car. | Long distances |
| Flatbed Trailer | Hitch receiver, full-size trailer | Safest method; all wheels of the towed car are off the ground. | Any distance |

Yeah, I tried it once with just a heavy-duty strap hooked to my truck's trailer hitch and my buddy's sedan's rear axle. We only needed to go a mile to the shop. It was a nightmare. The car fishtailed like crazy every time I tapped the brakes. We were going 15 mph and it felt like we were about to spin out. Never again. It’s not worth the risk. Just rent a dolly for 50 bucks.

As a rule, never connect a tow strap to anything not explicitly designed for it, like a suspension arm. If you're in a true bind and must move a disabled vehicle a very short distance at low speed, look for a dedicated tow hook—often found in the vehicle's tool kit—that screws into a socket behind a bumper cover. This is marginally safer but still not approved for road travel. The forces involved are immense, and improper attachment points can fail catastrophically.

The law is clear on this. For any public road, you need a proper hitch and a tow bar or dolly that provides a rigid connection. Using just a strap is illegal because it doesn't provide separate brake lights for the towed vehicle, creating a major hazard. You'll get a ticket in a heartbeat if a cop sees you. More importantly, your insurance company would likely deny any claim stemming from an accident caused by an improper towing setup, leaving you fully liable for all damages.

Think of it as purpose-built engineering. Your car's hitch is bolted directly to the reinforced frame, designed to distribute the pulling and braking forces. Hooking a strap to the suspension is like pulling a heavy wagon by its wheels instead of its frame—the wheels aren't meant to handle that stress. They'll bend or break. The hitch is the only correct anchor point. For anything beyond a quick pull onto a tow truck, the right equipment isn't just a suggestion; it's a fundamental requirement for basic physics.


