
You can still drive with reduced engine power. The reasons for reduced engine power include: 1. Excessive carbon buildup in the engine; 2. Prolonged use leading to aging spark plugs; 3. Substandard fuel grade; 4. Engine system malfunctions. It is recommended that vehicle owners conduct regular inspections. The automobile engine is the device that provides power to the vehicle, determining its power performance, fuel economy, stability, and environmental friendliness. The main components of an engine include: 1. The crankshaft connecting rod mechanism and valve train; 2. The fuel supply system; 3. The cooling system; 4. The lubrication system; 5. The ignition system and starting system.

Last time I drove an old Jetta, I also experienced insufficient power. Actually, if the engine lacks power, you can still manage to drive, but it depends on the specific situation. If it's obviously struggling uphill, the speed doesn't increase even when you floor the accelerator, or the engine warning light flashes, don't push it. I once had a clogged fuel pump filter, and the RPM could only reach 2500, crawling to the repair shop at a snail's pace. Here's what I suggest: First, pull over and turn on the hazard lights, feel the exhaust pipe to see if it's overheating, check the oil dipstick to see if the oil level is normal, then try restarting the engine. If it recovers after restarting, go for repairs immediately. If it still shakes or misfires, call a tow truck. Especially for turbocharged cars, continuing to drive might cause severe engine damage like cylinder scoring.

In my ten years of car repair, I've encountered various power loss situations. Fuel issues are the most common - using the wrong octane gasoline or insufficient fuel pump pressure can cause power to drop by over 30%. The intake system also frequently has problems. Last time I opened up a car with 80,000 kilometers, the air filter was so clogged there was only a coin-sized opening left. Exhaust blockages are dangerous too - a shattered catalytic converter can completely block the exhaust pipe. And those old Bora 1.8T models - aging ignition coils can directly cause cylinder misfires. In summary, as long as the engine can reach 3000 RPM without shaking and can be driven slowly to the repair shop, it's okay. But if the check engine light comes on accompanied by metallic knocking sounds, you must shut off the engine immediately.

From a mechanical perspective, a drop in power output indicates combustion efficiency has collapsed. Insufficient cylinder pressure is mostly caused by worn piston rings - I've measured some older cars with cylinder pressures as low as 6 bar. If the timing chain skips teeth, the valve timing gets completely messed up, making the engine feel suffocated even at full throttle. Clogged fuel injectors worsen atomization, while excessive spark plug gap results in weak ignition. The electronic control system is even more troublesome - when oxygen sensors get contaminated, the ECU starts randomly adjusting the air-fuel ratio. The worst case is cylinder scoring; continuing to run the engine will grind grooves into the cylinder walls. So whenever you notice the engine sounding muffled with black smoke from the exhaust, even if it still runs, never take it on the highway.


