
When the coolant level warning light comes on, you should not continue driving. The warning indicates that the car's coolant is insufficient or the radiator temperature is too high. Continuing to drive may cause the engine temperature to rise further, leading to engine damage. To avoid unnecessary losses and for safety reasons, it is not recommended to keep driving. If the coolant warning is due to the engine overheating, it is advisable to pull over, keep the engine running at idle, open the hood to allow it to cool down until the temperature warning disappears. If the issue is insufficient coolant and you don't have coolant to refill immediately, you can add an appropriate amount of distilled water (soft water). Do not use tap water or other hard water, and do not add too much, as it can alter the coolant's boiling point.

Last time I encountered a coolant warning light on the highway, that sudden little red light on the dashboard really gave me a scare. I immediately pulled over to check and found the coolant reservoir was nearly empty. This situation is most dangerous because it can cause engine overheating and cylinder scuffing - cast iron engines may deform if temperatures exceed 110°C. For short commutes of just 2-3 kilometers it might be manageable, but you must keep watching the temperature gauge and stop to cool down when the needle reaches the midpoint. I remember two years ago when Uncle Wang in our neighborhood stubbornly kept driving, only to have white smoke pouring from his engine halfway - the major repair cost him over 8,000 yuan. In an emergency you can add purified water, but at the repair shop you must completely replace it with new antifreeze - mixing different colored formulas can cause crystallization and clog the cooling system.

From an automotive design perspective, the coolant warning system serves as the final safety net. The yellow warning light indicates the fluid level has dropped below the minimum mark, while the red light means you must shut off the engine immediately. The engine cooling system relies on the water pump to circulate antifreeze for heat dissipation - insufficient fluid leads to localized overheating. In my tests with a 1.5T engine, running at idle for just ten minutes with low coolant caused cylinder head temperatures to exceed 140°C. Although some models have reserve chambers that can last another dozen kilometers, gambling isn't worth the risk. If you must move the vehicle, turn the heater to maximum setting to utilize the heater core for auxiliary cooling, while keeping RPM below 2000 and moving slowly.

Last week when I took my sister to the repair shop, we encountered this exact situation. Her little Fit had the coolant light on for three days. Young people nowadays always think 'if it runs, it's no big deal,' but when they opened up the engine, they found rust buildup in the third cylinder's water channel. The key is to determine whether it's natural consumption or a leak. Check the radiator and pipe connections for pink crystals (most antifreeze is colored) when the engine is cold in the morning. It's okay to drive short distances to the repair shop, but keep a bucket of purified water in the trunk. If the temperature gauge goes past the midpoint, stop to add water and cool it down. And whatever you do, don't follow online advice about opening the radiator cap when the engine is hot—the steam can scald your hands.

Continuing to drive with a loss of coolant in the cooling system is equivalent to slowly killing the engine. The most extreme case I've seen was a driver who stubbornly drove for 100 kilometers, resulting in the engine seizing up completely. Here's a practical maintenance tip: when the engine is cold, the upper radiator hose should feel soft and flexible. If it's hard, it indicates air pockets inside. Emergency measures after a warning light include turning off the A/C compressor to reduce load and turning on the recirculating heater to assist cooling. When at the repair shop, remember to have them check the water pump's sealing. Many coolant leaks are caused by aging water pump shaft seals. Replacing a water pump only costs 200-300 in labor, which is much more economical than an engine overhaul.


