
You cannot change engine oil without replacing the oil filter, and the reason is: if you don't replace the filter, the dirt in the oil filter will re-enter the oil circuit and affect the normal operation of the engine. The precautions for changing engine oil are: 1. Choose the right oil for your vehicle; 2. Change the oil as much as possible when the engine is warm, and drain the oil completely; 3. The oil filter must be replaced when changing the oil; 4. The amount of oil added should be appropriate, based on the oil dipstick; 5. After adding the oil, start the engine and check whether there is any leakage in each component. The steps for changing engine oil are: 1. Lift the vehicle with a jack, find the drain bolt and unscrew it to drain the oil; 2. After unscrewing the oil filter, place a container underneath; 3. Replace with a new oil filter and add new oil.

I reckon this doesn't sound reliable. The oil filter is essentially a trash bin for contaminants – all the metal shavings and carbon deposits worn off from the old oil get trapped in the filter element. Last time I tried cutting corners by not replacing the filter, the fresh oil turned dark brown after just 700-800 kilometers. The mechanic showed me the engine internals – the oil pan had settled with a layer of metal powder. Now I never skip replacing the filter during oil changes, and I even opt for dual-layer filtration models. Spending an extra 20 yuan is far better than an engine overhaul. You see those old cars billowing blue smoke on the road? Most likely suffered cylinder wall damage from prolonged filter neglect.

My SUV has run 120,000 kilometers, and I learned the hard way about not changing the filter. When new oil passes through an old filter, sludge can deplete the detergent in the fresh oil prematurely. Once after , I felt the engine sound was muffled, and upon inspection, the filter paper was deformed, reducing oil flow by nearly 30%. Now, I’ve made an agreement with the repair shop to cut open the old filter during oil changes to show me—if the paper folds are black and clumped, it’s time for a replacement. Honestly, the filter costs less than one-fifth of the oil price, so it’s not worth skimping on this.

From a technical perspective, the filtration pores of the filter element will gradually clog with use. I have tested a filter element that has run for 8,000 kilometers, and its filtration efficiency dropped to below 60% of a new one. What's more troublesome is that the bypass valve may open prematurely due to excessive oil pressure, allowing unfiltered oil to directly enter the lubrication system. Data shows that skipping two consecutive filter changes can accelerate engine wear by 47%. Nowadays, purchasing filter elements online is very convenient, with brands like Mann and Mahle costing only around 30 to 40 yuan.

After ten years in auto repair, I've seen too many car owners trying to save money on filters. The most common issue is oil leakage due to aged filter gaskets, where half a liter of new oil can drain unnoticed. More severe cases involve collapsed paper elements sending debris straight into oil passages. Last week, a Golf's hydraulic lifters got clogged precisely this way - the repair bill could've bought two hundred filters. Do the math: full synthetic oil costs 400, a filter 30, but skimping on filters might lead to engine overhauls costing tens of thousands.

Our fleet mandates replacing all three filters during every oil change. When the dust-holding capacity in old filters reaches 80%, it affects fuel supply pressure, especially in turbocharged vehicles which are more sensitive. Once we tried running new oil with old filters for 5,000 kilometers, and oil analysis showed copper content exceeding standards by three times. During maintenance now, we have apprentices compare new and old filters side by side - the used filters are noticeably heavier and blackened. Actually, quality oil filters can last 10,000 km, but since filter removal is required during oil changes anyway, it's logical to replace them simultaneously.


