
Yes, tow straps can be used to tow a car, but only for very short-distance, low-speed recoveries on private property or in emergency situations to move a disabled vehicle to the nearest safe location. They are not a substitute for proper commercial towing equipment and are illegal for use on public highways in many areas. The key to safety lies in using the correct type of strap and following a strict procedure to prevent the strap from snapping and becoming a deadly projectile.
A critical distinction is the type of strap. You must use a recovery strap (often with some elasticity) or a tow strap with reinforced loops, never a tie-down strap. Tie-down straps are not rated for the dynamic forces of pulling and can fail catastrophically. The vehicle doing the towing must be of comparable or greater size and weight, and both vehicles must have proper, structurally sound tow points.
| Safety & Equipment Consideration | Key Data & Specification |
|---|---|
| Maximum Working Load | 10,000 lbs to 30,000 lbs |
| Minimum Breaking Strength | 2 to 4 times the Working Load |
| Typical Strap Length | 10 feet to 30 feet |
| Common Strap Width | 2 inches to 4 inches |
| Safe Towing Speed Limit | Under 10 mph (16 km/h) |
| Required Safety Distance | At least 50 feet from all personnel |
The towing process requires coordination. Connect the strap to the manufacturer-specified tow hooks or loops—never to suspension parts, bumpers, or axles unless they are certified recovery points. The driver in the disabled vehicle must keep their foot on the brake to maintain tension and be ready to stop. Both drivers should agree on simple hand signals beforehand. A dampener, like a heavy blanket or specialized damper, placed over the middle of the strap is a non-negotiable safety step; it weighs down the strap if it snaps, preventing it from whipping back with lethal force. For any significant distance, public roads, or unsure footing, calling a professional tow truck is the only safe choice.

I’ve used them a few times to get a buddy’s car out of a ditch or off a trail. It works, but you gotta be smart. The biggest thing is communication. You can’t just yell out a window. You both need to know the plan: a couple tugs means go, a quick flash of the brakes means stop. And for heaven's sake, throw a heavy jacket over the strap while you’re pulling. If that thing breaks, it’ll cut through metal. It’s strictly a get-you-to-the-parking-lot solution, not for the highway.

As a solution, it's high-risk. The mechanics are simple: kinetic energy transfer. But the failure points are numerous—improper attachment points, strap degradation, or driver error. Most consumer-grade straps are not rated for the shock load of a stuck vehicle. The safer alternative is a flatbed tow truck. It eliminates the risk of a chain-reaction accident and protects the drivetrain of the disabled vehicle, especially if it's an all-wheel-drive model. The liability alone makes it not worth the gamble.

Check your owner’s manual first. It will show you exactly where the tow hook is and how to screw it into the bumper. That’s the only spot you should connect to. Then, use a strap meant for towing, with big, sewn loops on the ends. No metal hooks. Keep the pull slow and steady. If you jerk it, you’re asking for trouble. Everyone should stand far back. It feels like a simple fix, but the potential for something to go wrong is always there.

It’s a last-resort kind of thing. I keep a rated recovery strap in my trunk for real emergencies, like if my battery dies in a spot where a tow truck can’t easily get to me. The goal is just to get the car rolling so I can pop the clutch and bump-start it. You have to be hyper-aware of traffic and pedestrians. The entire operation should take less than a minute. If it’s more complicated than that, the small cost of a professional tow is a bargain compared to the potential damage or injury.


