
No, using full-strength Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner on car paint is not recommended. While it's a powerful degreaser for engines and wheels, its alkaline pH can damage clear coats and painted surfaces over time. Automotive paint requires pH-balanced cleaners with lubricants to safely lift dirt without causing micro-scratches or dulling the finish.
The primary risk comes from the product's chemical composition. Simple Green is designed to cut through tough grime and grease, which is too harsh for clear coats. Repeated use can strip protective waxes and sealants, and in some cases, can even begin to degrade the clear coat itself, leading to a loss of gloss and potentially causing the paint to become more susceptible to UV damage and oxidation.
For routine car washing, you should always use car wash soap specifically formulated for automotive finishes. These soaps are pH-neutral and contain lubricating agents that help the wash mitt glide over the surface, encapsulating dirt to prevent swirl marks. They effectively clean without compromising the paint's protective layers.
Here is a comparison of typical cleaners and their suitability for car paint:
| Cleaner Type | pH Level | Key Ingredients | Primary Use Case | Risk to Car Paint |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Car Wash Soap | Neutral (~7.0) | Surfactants, lubricants, gloss enhancers | Washing exterior painted surfaces, glass, trim | Very Low when used as directed |
| Simple Green (Diluted) | Alkaline (~8.5-9.5) | Surfactants, solvents, water softeners | Engine bays, wheel wells, tires, interior plastics | Moderate; can strip wax, dull finish if misused |
| Simple Green (Full-Strength) | Highly Alkaline (~10.5+) | Concentrated surfactants and solvents | Heavy-duty industrial/degreasing tasks | High; can damage clear coat, cause etching |
| Dish Soap | Alkaline (~8.0-10.0) | High-strength degreasers (e.g., SLS) | Cutting grease on dishes | High; strips wax/sealants, degrades protection |
If you absolutely must use Simple Green on a painted area—for instance, to remove a stubborn, sticky substance like tree sap or tar—it is critical to dilute it significantly (a ratio of 1:10 or even 1:15 with water is often suggested) and to use it for spot cleaning only. Immediately rinse the area thoroughly and follow up by applying a fresh layer of wax or sealant to restore protection.

I learned this the hard way. I used it once to clean some bug splatter off my hood, and it left a hazy, dull spot. My regular car soap never did that. It just feels too strong, like it's taking off more than just the dirt. I stick to products made just for cars now—it’s not worth the risk of ruining your paint job over a few saved minutes.

The official stance is that a heavily diluted solution can be used with caution, but it is not advised for painted surfaces. The concentrate is alkaline and can degrade waxes and potentially the clear coat over time. For safe, effective cleaning, a dedicated car wash shampoo is the only appropriate choice. It's formulated to clean without compromising the long-term integrity of your vehicle's finish.