Can I replace the coolant by myself?

[MichaelLynn]

It is possible to replace the coolant by yourself. The method for self-replacement is as follows: 1. Unscrew the radiator cap and open the radiator drain valve to release the coolant; 2. Keep the engine idling, insert a hose into the radiator, and continuously inject clean water into the engine cooling system for cleaning; 3. Stop injecting clean water, wait until the water has completely drained, and then close the drain valve; 4. Fill with new coolant until the liquid level is between the max and min water level marks; 5. Replace the radiator cap and reservoir cap, and tighten them; 6. Start the car and let the engine idle for two minutes, then top up the coolant to the max mark.

[LaLucille]

Changing the coolant yourself is completely doable, I do it often. The key is to prepare the same type of coolant—never mix different colors or formulations, as corroding the radiator would be a real headache. When performing the operation, always wait for the engine to cool completely before opening the radiator cap; scalding is no joke. When catching the old fluid with a basin, remember to lay down plastic sheeting—this stuff is terrible for concrete and plants. The trickiest part is bleeding the air—you’ll need to start the engine and wait for the coolant temperature to rise, squeezing the hoses while topping up the fluid until warm air blows out, indicating the system is fully purged. Finally, take the old coolant to an auto shop for proper disposal—never pour it down the drain to avoid environmental pollution.

[AndersonAnn]

As a veteran driver, I advise beginners to be cautious! The two biggest fears when changing coolant yourself are not draining the old fluid completely and failing to remove all air bubbles. Residual old fluid can halve the effectiveness of the new coolant, potentially causing the radiator to freeze and crack in winter. Incomplete air bleeding may lead to overheating – once my apprentice didn't bleed properly, and the dashboard temperature gauge immediately shot into the red zone. Essential tools include: radiator wrench, drain pan, funnel, and distilled water. After draining the old fluid, you must flush the system twice with distilled water until clear liquid flows out. Finally, mix coolant and purified water according to the manual's ratio. For northern friends, be sure to use a -25°C antifreeze model for reliable winter protection.

[JosiahLynn]

In principle, DIY replacement is feasible but involves technical considerations. Antifreeze serves not only to prevent freezing but also provides anti-corrosion and anti-boiling functions. Mixing different brands can cause additive conflicts, leading to flocculent formation that may clog the pipelines. The operation requires removing the lower radiator hose for complete drainage, as merely opening the drain valve leaves 40% of the old fluid. The key lies in the bleeding process: Turn the heater to maximum setting and maintain engine speed at 2,500 RPM for three minutes to ensure thorough coolant circulation. Monitor the fluid level continuously for three days afterward - if consumption exceeds the lower scale mark, it indicates incomplete air bleeding, and professional bleeding equipment at a service shop is recommended.

[Vanessa]

Last year, I saved 300 yuan in labor costs by doing it myself, but I'd advise impatient friends to just go to a repair shop. First, confirm whether your car has a ball valve drain or a clip-type interface—my German car required special tools just to open it. The best time for this is in the morning when the engine is cold. The amount of waste fluid is usually 1.5 times the marked capacity of the radiator—my car, labeled for 5 liters, actually drained 7 liters of old fluid. A special reminder for owners of older cars: before unscrewing the radiator cap, cover it with a thick cloth and turn it slowly. Once, I almost got hit in the face by aged steam. When adding new fluid, use a narrow-spout funnel. If any spills onto the engine, rinse it off immediately to avoid corrosion.