
Yes, you can buy a car with a 600 score, but you should be prepared for significantly higher financing costs and fewer lender options. A 600 score is considered "subprime" by most lenders, meaning you represent a higher risk. This will result in a much higher Annual Percentage Rate (APR) compared to borrowers with good credit. The key is to be strategic: get pre-approved from a credit union or online lender before visiting the dealership, focus on your overall budget rather than just the monthly payment, and consider a less expensive or used car to keep the loan amount manageable.
Your success will depend heavily on your debt-to-income ratio (DTI) and the size of your down payment. A higher down payment reduces the lender's risk and can help you secure a better rate. It's also crucial to shop around aggressively. Subprime lenders specialize in this market, but their rates vary widely. Avoid "buy-here, pay-here" lots if possible, as their financing terms are often the most expensive. The goal is to get the car you need while making on-time payments to rebuild your credit over the loan's term.
| Lender Type | Typical APR for a 600 Credit Score | Example: $20,000 Loan, 60-month term | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Credit Union | 9.5% - 13.99% | Total Interest: ~$2,600 - $4,700 | Often the best rates for members; requires membership. |
| Bank (Prime) | 11.5% - 18.99% | Total Interest: ~$3,200 - $6,400 | May have stricter requirements than credit unions. |
| Subprime Auto Lender | 15.0% - 24.99% | Total Interest: ~$4,200 - $8,800 | Specializes in lower scores; higher rates offset risk. |
| Dealership "Captive" Finance | Varies Widely | Total Interest: Varies | Convenient but may push you into the highest-rate option. |
| Buy-Here, Pay-Here Lot | 20.0%+ (effectively) | Total Interest: Can exceed loan principal | High risk; often no credit check but very expensive. |

Absolutely, but it's not going to be cheap. My score was right around 600 when I got my last car. The dealerships I went to found me a loan, but the interest rate was brutal. My advice? Go in with a big down payment if you can. It shows the bank you're serious and lowers the amount you have to borrow. I put down $3,000, and I'm pretty sure that's the only reason I got approved. Just be ready for that monthly payment to sting a bit more than you'd like.

You can, but you have to be careful. I learned the hard way that a low score locks you into high-interest loans. I was so focused on just getting a car that I didn't think about the long-term cost. That high APR added thousands to my loan. If I had to do it again, I'd get a pre-approval from my union first. It gives you a baseline so a dealer can't take advantage of your situation. Shop for the loan itself, not just the car.

Financially speaking, the answer is yes, but the total cost of ownership will be substantially higher. A 600 score places you in a risk category that commands a premium. Instead of focusing on the monthly payment, calculate the total interest you'll pay over the life of the loan. This perspective often makes a strong case for choosing a less expensive vehicle or increasing your down payment. The goal is to minimize the debt burden while using the loan as a tool to systematically improve your credit score with consistent, on-time payments.

Step one: check your exact score from all three bureaus. Step two: calculate your budget, including . Step three: get pre-approved from a credit union—their rates are usually better. Step four: only then start looking at cars within your pre-approved amount. A 600 score means you can't be picky; prioritize reliability over features. A solid used car from a reputable brand is a smarter move than a flashy new one with a massive loan. This method keeps you in control and prevents you from getting talked into a bad deal at the dealership.


