
Flood-damaged vehicles can be applied for scrapping. To scrap a vehicle, the owner needs to directly visit the municipal motor vehicle administration department for processing. The vehicle owner must bring their identity proof, vehicle registration certificate, vehicle license, and license plate to the vehicle dismantling plant's business department to fill out the "Application Form for Vehicle Suspension, Resumption/De-registration" or wait for notification at the license management counter for fee payment. Vehicles with flood levels that have not reached the chassis are not considered flood-damaged. Normal driving through water often involves depths of several tens of centimeters, and water contact with the chassis is not a major issue—it only causes rust in the corners of the chassis and on the brake discs. For such cases, simply washing the car promptly, especially giving the chassis a thorough rinse, is sufficient. Since rainwater is slightly acidic, it can corrode the rubber components of the chassis suspension structure. After washing, just open the car doors and use high heat to dry out the moisture. Vehicles with flood levels exceeding the chassis (reaching the center point of the wheel hub cover) are considered flood-damaged. The chassis has multiple sets of wiring harnesses and connectors on both sides of the sills. Flooding can damage core components, and the soundproofing mats inside the car cannot be reused after being soaked, as they will breed bacteria and produce severe odors even after drying. However, vehicles with this level of water damage are not classified as total losses by insurance companies because the cost of repairs and part replacements is not high—repair costs are significantly lower than scrapping costs. Vehicles with flood levels reaching the dashboard are considered total-loss flood-damaged vehicles. The soundproofing mats and seats inside the car need to be replaced, and all interior components must be disassembled and cleaned. The fuse box inside the car will inevitably short-circuit due to water ingress, as its vertical height is roughly level with the seat cushions, and electronic devices will also be damaged. The most severe damage occurs inside the engine compartment—the ECU circuit board will short-circuit and be damaged, and the fuse box inside the car will also be flooded. Additionally, the openings for various fluids (such as oil) will be contaminated with water and require complete replacement. Therefore, in such cases, it is generally advisable to apply for scrapping directly.

I’ve encountered a similar situation before. My water-damaged car was flooded after a heavy rain, with water entering both the chassis and engine bay. I consulted several mechanics, and they all said that if the water level exceeded the dashboard, the electronic systems would be too severely damaged—repair costs would outweigh buying a new car. In such cases, applying for scrapping is indeed an option. The specific steps involve first filing a report with the insurance company. After they send an inspector to confirm the total loss, you can proceed with the scrapping process. Next, visit the local DMV to deregister the vehicle and obtain the necessary certificate. The whole process isn’t too complicated, but you’ll need documents like the vehicle’s ID and purchase invoice. I think this approach is great—it not only avoids driving a safety hazard but also provides some insurance payout for financial flexibility. Looking back, it’s still scary; water-damaged cars are prone to malfunctions like brake failure, which is extremely dangerous. I recommend handling it sooner rather than later—don’t compromise safety.

Of course, flooded vehicles can apply for scrapping. From a repair perspective, once a car is submerged in water, especially for an extended period, common issues include corroded wiring harness connectors and short-circuited electronic control modules. Not only are the repair costs high, but the performance after repair is also unstable. It's more hassle-free to opt for scrapping. The specific steps involve towing the vehicle to a designated inspection agency to assess the damage. Once it's confirmed to meet the scrapping criteria, you'll need to fill out an application form at the vehicle management office to deregister it. Don't forget to file an insurance claim to mitigate losses. Personally, I believe this isn't just about saving money—it's about taking responsibility for yourself. Flooded vehicles are prone to bacteria and mold growth, which can pose health risks if driven long-term. If the water didn't exceed half the tire height, repairs might still be possible, but if the submersion was deep, don't hesitate. Compare quotes from several recycling centers and choose the highest offer for the most cost-effective solution.

Regarding the scrapping of flood-damaged vehicles, I believe the key consideration is safety. When a car is severely waterlogged, the body may rust and deform, and the airbag system could fail, posing significant accident risks. If the damage is extensive, it's wise to decisively scrap the vehicle. The process involves reporting to the insurance company for a total loss claim. After they handle it, proceed to the relevant authorities to deregister the vehicle. During this process, prepare the vehicle registration certificate and ID documents—it typically takes one to two weeks to complete. I've seen a friend stubbornly repair a flood-damaged car only to get into an accident later—a hard lesson learned. It's far safer to scrap the car, receive some compensation, and purchase a reliable used vehicle instead.


