
Yes, a car's driveline can absolutely fail, often with a loud "pop" or bang. This sound typically signals a catastrophic failure of a critical component, such as a CV joint (Constant Velocity joint, which transfers power to the wheels while allowing for steering and suspension movement), a U-joint (Universal joint, commonly found in the driveshaft of rear-wheel-drive vehicles), or the differential. This is a severe mechanical issue that will immediately disable the vehicle, posing a significant safety risk.
The most common cause is a lack of maintenance. Components like CV joints are protected by rubber boots that keep grease in and contaminants out. When these boots tear, the joint loses lubrication, contaminates with dirt, and wears out rapidly, eventually leading to a dramatic failure. Other causes include extreme abuse (like aggressive off-roading or "hard launches" that shock the drivetrain), pre-existing damage from impacts (e.g., hitting a large curb or pothole), or simply the extreme wear and tear of high mileage on an older vehicle.
The symptoms leading up to a failure are usually noticeable. For a failing CV joint (common in front-wheel-drive cars), you might hear a distinct clicking sound when turning, especially at low speeds. A worn U-joint in a driveshaft often produces a clunking noise when shifting from Drive to Reverse or during acceleration. Any vibration coming from underneath the car, particularly during acceleration, is another major red flag.
If you hear a pop and the car loses power but the engine is still running, do not continue driving. A broken driveshaft or axle can swing violently and damage brake lines, fuel lines, or the underside of the car. The safest action is to pull over immediately and have the vehicle towed to a repair shop. The repair is not a simple fix; it involves replacing the failed component, which can be a costly endeavor depending on the vehicle.
| Common Driveline Failure Points | Typical Symptoms | Average Repair Cost Range (Parts & Labor) | Primary Cause |
|---|---|---|---|
| CV Axle/Joint Failure | Clicking on turns, vibration during acceleration | $350 - $950 | Torn boot, lack of lubrication |
| Driveshaft U-Joint Failure | Clunking when shifting gears, vibration at speed | $250 - $650 | Age, corrosion, lack of lubrication |
| Differential Failure | Whining or grinding noise, fluid leaks | $1,000 - $4,000+ | Low fluid, worn gears/bearings |
| Transfer Case Failure (4WD/AWD) | Grinding from center, inability to engage 4WD | $1,500 - $3,500 | Fluid issues, mechanical wear |

Oh, it can pop, alright. Happened to my old pickup truck. I was pulling out of a parking lot, heard a huge BANG, and the car just wouldn't move. The engine revved, but nothing happened. The mechanic said the U-joint on the driveshaft gave out. It had been making a clunking sound for a few weeks, but I kept putting off getting it checked. Cost me over $500 to fix. If your car starts making weird noises, don't ignore it like I did.


