
Yes, a car can often still start with a P0606 code, but it is a serious issue that should not be ignored. The P0606 code indicates an internal processor error within the vehicle's PCM (Powertrain Control Module), which is the main computer that manages the engine and transmission. This error means the PCM has failed a self-check, leading to unpredictable behavior. While the car may start and run, you might experience a "limp mode"—a state where the PCM restricts engine power to prevent damage—or the vehicle may stall unexpectedly. This is not a simple sensor problem; it points to a potential failure of the computer itself.
The most common causes are a faulty PCM needing replacement or reflashing, wiring issues like corrosion or damage to the PCM harness, or, less commonly, software glitches. Diagnosing this requires a professional technician with advanced scan tools. They will check for related codes, inspect wiring, and test the PCM's power and ground signals. Simply clearing the code will not fix the underlying hardware problem.
| Potential Cause | Symptom/Explanation | Typical Fix | Approximate Repair Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCM Software/Glitch | Intermittent issue, code may not return immediately | Reflash/Reprogram PCM | $100 - $300 |
| Faulty PCM Needs Replacement | Persistent code, drivability issues (limp mode, stalling) | Replace and program new PCM | $800 - $2,000+ |
| Wiring Harness Issue | Corrosion, damage, or short in circuits to PCM | Repair wiring harness | $200 - $600 |
| Low Battery Voltage | Can cause computer memory corruption | Charge or replace battery; clear codes | $0 - $250 |
Driving with a P0606 code is risky. The car could lose power at a critical moment, like during highway merging. The safest course of action is to have the vehicle diagnosed by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

From my experience turning wrenches, a car might fire up with a P0606, but it's a major red flag. That code means the engine's brain—the PCM—is having a internal meltdown. Don't expect it to run right. You'll likely be stuck in limp mode, with no power. It's not a "drive it for weeks" kind of problem. Get it to a shop pronto. Trying to fix this yourself without the right diagnostic software is usually a dead end; it often needs a new, programmed computer.

Honestly, it's scary. My car started with that code, but it felt completely different—sluggish and unresponsive. The check engine light was on, and it wouldn't go over 35 miles per hour. It's the computer basically saying, "I'm broken, and I can't control the engine properly anymore." You can probably start it to move it out of a dangerous spot, but driving it any real distance is asking for a breakdown. Call your mechanic for a tow instead of risking it.


