
Yes, a car battery can run a fridge, but it's a short-term solution with significant limitations. The primary concern is the battery's capacity, measured in amp-hours (Ah). A typical car battery has a capacity of around 45-60 Ah. A standard 12V portable fridge might draw 5 amps per hour. Simple math shows a fully charged 50Ah battery would be depleted in about 10 hours (50Ah / 5A) if the fridge runs continuously. However, since a fridge cycles on and off, actual runtime depends on the ambient temperature and fridge settings. Crucially, deeply discharging a standard car starter battery below 50% capacity can permanently damage it, leaving you stranded. For anything beyond a brief power outage, a dedicated deep-cycle battery is a much safer and more effective choice.
The key to making this work is a power inverter, which converts your car's 12V DC power to the 110V AC power that most household fridges require. Inverters are rated by their continuous wattage output. You must choose one that can handle the fridge's starting wattage (or surge power), which is often 2-3 times higher than its running wattage. For a modern energy-efficient fridge, a 1000-watt pure sine wave inverter is a reliable starting point.
Here’s a quick reference table for estimated runtimes based on a fully charged 50Ah car battery, assuming a 12V fridge that cycles on and off:
| Fridge Type & Size | Average Power Draw (Watts) | Estimated Runtime (Hours) | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small Portable Cooler (20 Quart) | 40-50W | 8-12 hours | Best case scenario for a car battery. |
| Medium Car Fridge (45 Quart) | 50-60W | 6-9 hours | Common for camping; manageable for a day trip. |
| Large Portable Fridge (60+ Quart) | 60-80W | 4-7 hours | High drain; risks battery damage if used overnight. |
| Standard Home Mini-Fridge | 80-100W (via inverter) | 2-4 hours | Not recommended; high surge current can overwhelm system. |
For anything more than a few hours, you should run the car's engine every so often to recharge the battery. A better long-term setup for camping or tailgating involves a deep-cycle battery (like an AGM or lithium iron phosphate model) isolated from your vehicle's starting battery, ensuring you can always start your car.

I've done this tailgating. It works, but you gotta be smart. I plug a small cooler fridge into my SUV using a cheap inverter. The trick? I always start the engine for 15-20 minutes every hour or two to keep the battery topped up. I never risk it overnight. It's perfect for keeping drinks cold during the game, but I wouldn't trust it for a weekend camping trip without a second, separate battery just for the fridge.


