
It can be used, but it will last less than one hour. The following is an introduction to automotive mechanical motors: Motor: A motor refers to an electromagnetic device that achieves the conversion or transmission of electrical energy based on the law of electromagnetic induction. DC type: The working principle of a DC generator is to convert the alternating electromotive force induced in the armature coil into a direct current electromotive force when it is drawn from the brush end, with the help of the commutator and the brush's commutation effect. Working principle: The direction of the force acting on the conductor is determined by the left-hand rule. This pair of electromagnetic forces forms a torque acting on the armature, known as the electromagnetic torque in rotating motors. The direction of the torque is counterclockwise, attempting to make the armature rotate counterclockwise.

I've got a good grasp of this voltage-driven motor situation. Generally speaking, 60 volts can power a 1500-watt motor. According to the formula, power equals voltage multiplied by current. 1500 watts divided by 60 volts gives you 25 amps, so theoretically it works. But in actual practice, from the electric vehicle modification cases I often encounter, the battery needs to be able to stably output 25 amps; otherwise, it might overheat or blow a fuse. If the battery capacity is too small, it might not last long—for example, with car lead-acid batteries or lithium battery packs, anything below 50 amp-hours will result in short range. Also, the thickness of the wiring matters; too thin wires can cause voltage drop and reduce efficiency. I recommend using a multimeter to measure the actual current and ensure some margin, so you don’t end up with dimming headlights halfway. Safety first—better consult someone who knows their stuff and check the motor’s spec sheet.

I've been playing with electric vehicles for many years, and to be honest, a 60-volt system with a 1500-watt motor does work. Take my modified old scooter for example—similar voltage and power combinations are fine as long as the battery is reliable. But you need to watch the actual load, especially during cold starts or uphill climbs when demand spikes, as excessive current can burn out wires. I recommend testing several times and using a clamp meter to monitor, keeping it under 25 amps. If the battery capacity drops below 30 amp-hours, consider upgrading to a larger one to avoid short lifespan. Add safety measures during modifications, like using a 30-amp fuse to prevent accidents. Pro tip: check the manual before tinkering to save yourself repair headaches.

In the issues I've dealt with, a 60V driving a 1500W motor is feasible, but don't overlook the risks. A current of 25 amps can cause wire overheating, especially if the vehicle's wiring harness is aged, which may lead to melting and fire. It's advisable to first check the battery health; if it's below 80%, unstable voltage won't be able to drive it effectively. For protection, adding cooling devices or upgrading to thicker cables, preferably above 0.5 square millimeters, is better. After modification, observe if the motor sounds abnormal—a buzzing noise might indicate unstable signals. For safety, I always remind my friends to perform regular maintenance to avoid breakdowns on the road.


