
It is better not to use it, as the formulations of automotive engine oil and motorcycle engine oil are different. Below is the relevant introduction: Automotive engine oil: Engine oil, also known as engine lubricant, with the English name: Engine oil. It has a density of approximately 0.91×10³ (kg/m³) and serves to lubricate and reduce friction, assist in cooling, seal against leaks, prevent rust and corrosion, and provide shock absorption for the engine. It is known as the 'blood' of the automobile. Engine oil consists of two parts: base oil and additives. The base oil is the main component of the lubricant, determining its basic properties, while the additives can compensate for and improve the deficiencies in the base oil's performance, giving it certain new properties, making them an important part of the lubricant. Requirements: As a type of machinery, engines have common requirements for lubricants similar to those of general machinery, such as requiring appropriate viscosity, certain anti-oxidation, anti-wear, anti-corrosion, and viscosity-temperature performance requirements.

I've been riding motorcycles for many years, and 20W-50 oil works perfectly fine on my bike, especially my old Harley. It's particularly suitable during the high temperatures of summer. The high viscosity means it protects the engine in hot weather without thinning out or leaking. However, don't randomly use it on modern sport bikes, especially small-displacement new models—their manuals often recommend lower-viscosity oils like 10W-40. If you use 20W-50 on a new bike, the engine might run less smoothly, lose power, and suffer long-term wear. I still remember my last desert ride—after switching to 20W-50, the engine noise reduced, but it's better to switch to a thinner oil in winter. In short, always check your motorcycle manual for the manufacturer's recommendation before changing oils—it's crucial for protecting your bike.

As someone who frequently deals with oil-related issues, I have to say that 20W-50 can indeed be used in motorcycles, but it depends on the bike's condition and environment. The 20W indicates low-temperature fluidity, making it suitable for warmer regions, while the 50 denotes high-temperature viscosity, which helps resist wear. If you own an older motorcycle or frequently ride under high loads, such as long-distance touring, it's a decent option. However, modern new bikes might not be compatible because the excessive viscosity could cause clutch slippage and affect acceleration. Additionally, always use motorcycle-specific oil—never automotive oil, as its additives can damage a bike's wet clutch system. I recommend checking the oil level every 5,000 km to prevent degradation. If unsure, measure local temperatures, consult the manual, or seek advice from a professional shop.

When I first started riding motorcycles, I was curious if 20W-50 could be used. Later, I found out it actually works well, especially for riders like me in southern cities where summers get really hot. I checked the owner's manual, which stated that older models allow it, but a common mistake beginners make is using it in newer bikes, leading to increased engine noise or rough gear shifts. The advantage of higher viscosity is better engine protection and reduced overheating. I also picked up some tips, like checking the oil color—if it turns black, it's time for a change. Using the right viscosity during routine maintenance can extend oil life and save on repair costs. Overall, don’t worry too much—just check your bike’s requirements first, avoid blindly following trends, and prioritize safety.


