
Flood-damaged vehicles are generally classified into 1-6 levels. If the damage reaches levels 5 or 6, the vehicle is basically considered totaled. The difference between recommended scrapping and mandatory scrapping: Recommended scrapping suggests that the vehicle should be scrapped, but if it still meets the requirements for continued use, scrapping is not compulsory. Mandatory scrapping means the vehicle must, without exception, be scrapped. Standards for mandatory scrapping include: Reaching the prescribed service life; failing to meet the national safety technical standards for in-use vehicles after repairs and adjustments; still failing to meet national standards for pollutant emissions or noise after repairs, adjustments, or control technology implementation; or not obtaining the mandatory vehicle inspection certification for three consecutive inspection cycles after the inspection validity period expires.

Regarding the classification of flood-damaged vehicles for scrapping, let me share some insights from my experience in car repair. Flood-damaged vehicles are typically categorized into 6 levels, ranging from Level 1 where only the wheel bottoms are submerged to Level 6 where the car is completely floating. Generally, when it reaches Level 3, where water rises above the dashboard, scrapping starts to be considered. At this point, water has already infiltrated the engine and electronic systems, causing severe corrosion and short circuits. The repair costs often exceed the vehicle's actual value—for example, rusted wiring due to water damage can cost thousands or even tens of thousands to fix, whereas buying a new car might be cheaper. More critically, safety risks arise, as water-damaged brakes or airbags are prone to failure, making driving nerve-wracking. Don’t just focus on the flood level; factors like the car’s age and duration of submersion also matter. Sometimes, even a Level 2 flood can lead to scrapping if the car has been submerged for too long. In short, if you encounter such a situation, promptly seek a professional evaluation or consult your insurance company.

In handling such cases, we've found that the critical point for declaring a flood-damaged vehicle as a total loss is around Level 4. When water reaches the roof level, insurance companies almost always declare it a total loss due to prohibitively high repair costs—such as replacing the entire wiring harness and ECU modules, which could double the repair bill to over 100,000 RMB, exceeding the price of a used car. Lower levels like 1 or 2, where water only reaches below the seats, may still be salvageable, but the battery and electrical circuits must be checked for moisture damage and rust. My professional opinion is that any flooding above the dashboard (Level 3 or higher) should ideally be declared a total loss. Otherwise, issues like sudden engine stalls or electrical failures may frequently arise within months, compromising daily driving safety. Always document with photos and report to insurance promptly to avoid disputes and delays.

From what I understand, water-damaged vehicles are classified into 6 levels, with higher levels indicating greater risks. Level 3 damage (water reaching the dashboard) often means the car is totaled - repairs are costly and time-consuming, with electrical systems completely ruined and prone to malfunctions. Lower levels like water at wheelbase may still be drivable but watch for rust. Duration of submersion also matters - even Level 2 damage could total a car if submerged too long. Safety first - never force a water-damaged vehicle back into service.


