1995 BMW M3 - Manual, Slicktop, Supercharged - $12,000 (Shoreline)

First off, this is a great little car with big potential, but is a project that I haven’t been able to get across the finish line. I just don’t have the time, even though it is very close to being complete. Looking to sell to another M3 or BMW enthusiast who knows what they’re getting (and getting into). I’m not looking to drive a “I know what I’ve got”-style hard bargain, I’d rather you have the time and space to appreciate the car and to make it your own thus the car is OBO for the right buyer. The Basics: - ‘95 BMW M3 2-door coupe with ~210K miles, 5-speed manual - Rare ‘slicktop’ (no sunroof) optioned model - Clean title, no accidents, no rust. Might be the straightest E36 body you’ll see on the road these days. - Original S50 motor running great and pulls hard - Overall runs and drives very well - Stage 2.5 RMS supercharger kit (prob < 3K miles on the kit overall) - 22RPD tuning chip - Full Supersprint catless exhaust (I have the stock exhaust also that you can have) - Real AC Schnitzer wheels in excellent condition What to Know: - The Supersprint muffler isn’t mating up to the Supersprint mid-pipe perfectly and there’s a little bit of an exhaust leak at this junction which is annoying in the cabin since the car is cat-less. Despite being from the same company, the right hardware to make this junction work was tough to find last I checked. An exhaust shop could probably take care of this in short order and I might just take care of this one. - There’s a small oil leak (old BMWs, right?) that I think is coming from where the oil pressure feed line plugs into the distribution block. It’s probably just a matter of getting in there and tightening or replacing the fitting, but to get there you need to have tiny hands or remove the intake manifold (which is a little time consuming to do now, given the supercharger kit). I suspect other small BMW oil leaks here and there but nothing else obvious to me other than this fitting. - There’s a short somewhere in the gauge cluster circuitry whereby the gauge cluster sometimes loses power momentarily while driving so you lose the speedo, tachometer, etc (but the car still runs fine). It’s worrying when it happens, but the car continues to run and the gauge always regains power. Seems to be temperature dependent and appears to be a common thing on E36s at this point. There are various DIY fixes on the forums for this if you want to solder a couple joints. - Overall the body panels and paint on this car are in excellent shape with no dents/dings. The only exceptions are couple of spots on the hood where rock chips have cracked the paint. But the plusses far outweigh the minuses for potential here. - The interior is in okay shape but could use some conditioning here and there - The passenger-side window doesn’t ‘auto-drop’ that 1-inch when you open the door. I replaced both the window regulator (a worked used oem part) and the micro-switch (new oem from fcpeuro) for the door, but still can’t get the auto-drop to work for some reason. Lots of things are ~new on this car (head gasket, front main seal, most of the pulleys, alternator, power steering lines, battery, etc.) as part of the project that I undertook that I can’t seem to get across the finish line. So please reach out if this is your kind of thing! Will add more pictures soon. Cheers!