Reasons for Engine Seizing and Failing to Start
3 Answers
Reasons for engine seizing and failing to start are as follows: 1. Electrical or electronic failure. Electrical failures include: blown fuse, open circuit in high-voltage coil, open circuit in low-voltage circuit, detached central ignition wire, distributor rotor leakage, damaged spark plug; electronic failure mainly refers to the malfunction of the central computer control board. 2. Fuel system failure. Possible locations of fuel system failure: fuel pump failure, blocked fuel line, clogged fuel filter, carburetor failure, damaged injector, etc. 3. Mechanical failure. Common mechanical failures: timing belt (chain) breakage, cylinder leakage with no pressure, etc.
Last time my old ride suddenly quit on the highway, and the inspection revealed all the coolant had leaked out. The entire engine was smoking hot and completely seized up. I hadn't paid attention to the aging radiator hoses, and as a result, the cylinder block and pistons were fused together. The mechanic said this kind of overheating seizure is the worst to deal with—disassembling, cleaning, and installing new piston rings cost me several thousand. Another time, after sitting too long in winter, it groaned like a tractor a couple of times at startup and then died. Turns out the engine oil had congealed like jelly, and the bearing shells were stuck, preventing rotation. Now I've learned my lesson: if the car sits for more than two weeks, I always warm it up first and change the oil more frequently to avoid getting stranded again.
Having worked in auto repair for so many years, I've seen plenty of seized engines. The most common cause is lack of oil lubrication, where metal-on-metal grinding produces shavings that jam the bearings - at best scoring the cylinders, at worst completely destroying the engine. Last time I overhauled an old Camry, the drained oil was black as soy sauce and the cylinder walls were all scratched. Another serious culprit is cooling system failure - when the temperature gauge maxes out, aluminum components expand and deform, locking the crankshaft solid. The worst are flood-damaged cars - trying to open those rusted crankcases is a nightmare. My advice: check your dipstick regularly, change your three filters on schedule. Mechanics' wallets aren't easy to empty, you know.
